Showing posts with label Knitting Professionals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Knitting Professionals. Show all posts

An Interview with...Kirsten Gustafson-Kapur


Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 


You can find Kirsten here and here.
Where do you find inspiration?
I find inspiration everywhere - in photographs, in textiles, in architecture, walking down the street, from my kids, watching movies, going to museums. . .
Yarn also inspires me. Sometimes just looking at a skein of yarn or swatching with it will lead to the design.


What is your favourite knitting technique?
It varies depending on my inspiration of the moment. Sometimes it’s colorwork, other times lace, and still other times cables. I am happy to learn a new technique if it gives me the ability to execute the design I have in mind.



http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/the-three-graces

How did you determine your size range?
I believe in including a large size range when designing sweaters. I usually try include about 12 sizes. Not every design lends itself to a wide range of sizes though and in those cases I limit the range.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I’m on Ravelry all the the time so I do see other designers’ work, but I don’t worry about being influenced by others’ designs. Sometimes it works the other way, I’ve actually looked through the Ravelry database to make sure I’m not duplicating something that’s already out there. Even with the best efforts designers sometimes do duplicate one another. We all work from similar stitch patterns and there are only so many shapes one can create for a hat, mitten, shawl or even a cardigan.

Another reason to look at others’ designs is it’s important to stay on top of trends and be aware of what types of patterns knitters are looking for. For this reason I also look at current ready to wear design to stay on top of trends in that market.


How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I think making knitting patterns accessible to a wide range of knitters is a very good thing. Giving detailed, clear instructions allows beginning knitters to learn new skills and become better knitters which is good for knitting in general. Not everyone has access to local instructors or a family member to teach them new skills, if they can learn new skills in the patterns that they knit, why would that be a problem?


http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/the-three-graces

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I wouldn’t be in this business without the Internet, so I’d say the impact is huge.  I started my blog over 6 years ago because I wanted to connect with other knitters. That lead to putting up a few free patterns. These freebies were well received, so I started designing more complicated patterns and charging for them and my business grew from there. When Ravelry came along it brought my work to an even wider range of knitters. Although I occasionally submit to print magazines and have been published in books, my business continues to be mostly online.


How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Balance? What’s that? My kids are my models, my work goes everywhere I do, and I work at all hours of the day and night, so I’m not sure I have managed to maintain any kind of a balance. Lately I am trying to make my health and fitness a priority, so I do take the time to workout, get enough sleep and eat healthy meals.
I worked in the ready to wear apparel industry for years. You have to develop a thick skin to do that, so I think I am able to handle criticism pretty well. If the criticism is deserved, and sometimes it is, I try to take it constructively and learn from it. If it is undeserved, then I think of the majority of my customers who are kind, supportive and sometimes even take the time to send sweet, personal notes telling me how they’ve enjoyed my patterns. I can’t think of any other job I could do where I would get as many kind comments as I do as a knitting pattern designer. A few negative comments can never outweigh that.


How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I wouldn’t be doing this job if I didn’t rely on my husband’s income as well. The money I earn with my design work goes toward my kids’ college tuitions - I’m going to have three in college next year - but doesn’t come close to covering those tuition bills. This is not a high paying job. If someone is looking to make a lot of money they might want to try something else.


What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Do it because you love it. This job involves crazy, hours for not a lot of cash reward so you’d better love what you’re doing.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gloucester-wrap

An Interview with...Michaela Moores

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ropery
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Michaela here.

Where do you find inspiration?
I've always had a strong interest in fashion, and pay very close attention to catwalk trends. Things that can seem extreme or impractical on the catwalk can be transformed into unusual garments or accessories with a little tweaking. My design process is very much silhouette based, so looking at garments with extra volume and unusual construction is a big influence. My partner is a patternmaker at a high end fashion label, and I take a lot of advice and inspiration from him. However, I generally consider myself to be more of an engineer than a designer. Once I have an idea it's the process of converting that shape or silhouette into a knitted form that excites me most of all.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
Alice Yu's Shadow Wraps short row technique pretty much changed my whole design perspective. Because I like to add volume to my knits, I use a lot of short rows, and this is almost always the best way to do it. Ropery is my homage to this great technique.
I'm also addicted to Techknitter's new TULIPS buttonhole. I discovered it when knitting Cucumber, a pattern which needs really strong buttonholes. Instead of reinforcing the buttonholes later, here you can make a sturdy buttonhole in just one row.

How did you determine your size range?
Of course, when working with magazines your size range is determined for you, I think magazines such as Knitty have the right idea in trying to be as inclusive as possible. The difficulty for designers in choosing a size range is complex, firstly, you want to maximize the potential audience for your pattern, which means lots of sizes from very small to very large. However, even if technical editors worked for free, there are downsides to having many many sizes. The more you have, the more difficult the pattern is to read, and the more intimidating it will appear to a less experienced knitter, so you can lose audience that way too. What some magazines do is have fewer sizes more widely dispersed, increments of 4 inches in the bust is common. However in doing this you lose accuracy for the majority of knitters who fall between sizes (I myself have a 34" bust, splat bang in the middle of the 32"-36" gap).
So for me, my size range tends to depend upon the pattern. Koho is in a smaller size range but given at 2" increments to allow knitters to find the best fit in a pattern with considerable negative ease. Ropery and Cucumber fit a wider range of sizes, but both are oversized in their own way. What I would like to see from other designers is an increase in the availability of patterns smaller than a 32" bust. Designers have happily upsized their patterns but the smaller knitter is so often left out.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I think it's really important to be aware of what other successful designers are doing, what kind of patterns magazines are publishing and what knitter's responses to those patterns are. It's basic business sense. You need to have an awareness of what kind of designs are going to interest knitters. Market research is important in any field, and an industry as overcrowded as hand knit design requires any designer without a large loyal fan base to be aware of the trends out there. That's not to say I approach my design work as an entirely soulless, trend driven exercise, I don't. But I know what I'm good at, and it's useful to see what I can do to integrate my own aesthetic with that of the wider industry.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
With my patterns, I like to presume that knitters know the basics of what I'm trying to do. I assume that someone knitting one of my sock patterns has knit a sock before unless I'm advertising it as a beginner sock pattern. If there's something unusual, I'll explain it as succinctly and accurately as I can, and also include a link to TechKnitter (who is, in my opinion, the best resource for techniques knitters today have) or Youtube, or both. I don't want to reinvent the wheel in my patterns and don't feel the need to spend large amounts of my time, my technical editors time, and knitter's printer ink, explaining techniques when someone else out there in the wider internet has almost certainly done a better job than I could. 
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEss12/KSPATTboscobel.php

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I always knit my own samples, I don't have children and knit pretty fast so to date this hasn't caused any issues. I have run test knits in the past but generally find them less useful than a good technical editor, although in an ideal world I'd do both. Nowadays the vast majority of my patterns are for publications so have been "test knit" by readers before rights revert to me and I self publish.

Did you do a formal business plan?
I took a few business classes when I first started to design full time, but never wrote a formal plan per se. I knew it would take a couple of years to start being profitable, so I set myself a series of goals over the first year, all of which I met in plenty of time. 

Do you have a mentor?
I wouldn't be where I am today without the help and support I've receive from Alice Yu (Socktopus). As well as giving me so much of her own advice she charged me with heading up the volunteer team at last summer's Knit Nation where I was able to meet and gain advice from so many of the people who's careers I respect the most, Cookie A, Anne Hanson, Ysolda Teague, Judith McKenzie to name but a few. 

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I can say without a trace of irony that Ravelry Changed My Life. Before Ravelry, I was a graduate student in biology knitting vintage patterns I found in charity shops and doing the odd spot of sample knitting for fashion designer friends. A year after joining Ravelry, having realized that there were other people in the world who loved knitting as much as I did, and that hey, perhaps I could make a living doing something I loved, I left my PhD with enough savings to last the year, and embarked on setting up MichaelaKnits. I have never, ever regretted it.

Do you use a tech editor?
Yes. Always. Tech editors are amazing. 

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I work very long hours, but so does my partner. As he works in fashion he's very busy in September and February with fashion week, and I'm very busy then with new patterns for Autumn/Spring. We try to take time off together in the summer and at Christmas. I try not to work when he's at home, but often samples need to be knit in front of a DVD together.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/greyfriars-mitts
How do you deal with criticism?
It doesn't phase me. I'm of the "no publicity is bad publicity" mindset - at least when it comes to my designs. It seems for everyone who hates something there's someone else who loves it, and knitters can be very loyal. It would be awful if someone were to criticize me personally, especially as I pride myself on being as professional as possible, but we're all adults, and I think people can see both sides of a dispute.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
It took just over a year before, with 15 hours a week of part time work, I was able to support myself (and my cats) living in London. We've recently moved to Antwerp, Belgium, which has meant the loss of my part time job and reduced my UK based earnings slightly. However, I'm now in a position to be able to knit full time, so will be able to take on a larger amount of work than before and improve my marketing skills - plus, the cost of living here is considerably less!

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Like any business, don't expect to turn a profit in the first year, or maybe even the second. Find a mentor, or even someone who'll meet you for a coffee and give you their advice - who's good to work with, who's a bit flakey, who should be avoided like the plague. Be professional from the start. Check your emails for spelling errors and always sign off correctly. Get a domain name, and nice business cards. Spend money on your haircut/glasses/coat - first impressions count, and if you're modelling your own knitwear your appearance needs to be memorable (Think Cookie's green hair, Anne Hanson's short crop). Read The Knitgrrl Guide to Professional Knitwear Design, but read other business books too. Use a technical editor. There are a lot of inspirational blogs and podcasts out there - it's easy to get lazy when you've spent 3 days on the sofa deadline knitting in front of a DVD - use them. Robin's here is great, check out rockandpurl.com too (she always makes me feel SUPER inefficient!). Use twitter, it's a great way to network, but don't use it ALL the time, it's a major timesuck. Try to establish regular working relationships with the magazines you get on with best. It's great to be published somewhere once, it's better to be invited back.

The best advice I got was to figure out what makes YOU different. And exploit that difference. Unfortunately I'm still figuring that one out!


http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEss12/PATTcucumber.php
 

An Interview with...Melissa Goodale

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/carnelian

 
Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Melissa here on Ravelry and here.


Where do you find inspiration?
Silly as it sounds, everywhere. I love flipping through stitch dictionaries, wandering the mall seeing what's on the shelves, browsing Ravelry to see what's popular. Sometimes it's on something someone is wearing as they walk by me. I never know when the mood will strike.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
My favorites are really the whole family of starting and finishing techniques. I honestly feel it's the fit and finish of a design that makes the difference between a passable design and an amazing design. I'm always looking for new ways to cast on, bind off, and work edge stitches to make designs sing.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/manohara
How did you determine your size range?
It varies. When I publish in traditional media (books, magazines) I simply follow the guidelines set by my editor. When I'm self publishing a lot comes down to me taking a guess at what size range will want to actually knit the design, though I do try to make it as broad as is reasonable.

Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I very much look at others work and have no qualms being influenced by what I see. There's a big difference between being influenced and plagiarizing.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/alicanto
How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
I'm of two minds on this one. As Stick Chick Knits (professional designer), I feel part of the job of a successful designer (treating design as a business, not art or a hobby), is to meet the demands of the customer. So if the customers want more detail, lets give it to them. I write my patterns accordingly.
That said, as Mel (hobby knitter), I kind of think it's silly. 50 years ago patterns were much shorter, with less detail, and knitters were forced to either figure out a solution, or go hunting for an answer at the library or from other knitters they knew (a very time consuming process). Now we have the internet at our finger tips, where finding a video to walk you through a technique takes minutes at most, and we want it all spelled out for us in detail. To me it seems it should have been the other way around. When information was hard to find, the patterns should have included more, and now that information is easy to find they should include less.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I have a few test knitters, depending on the type of pattern I'm working on, but I do all my own sample knitting. I often design as I knit; so I'll cast on with a basic idea of where I'm going, but I'll fiddle with the details while I work up the sample.

I've spent a lot of time working with Jennifer Hansen, of Stitch Diva, and consider her my mentor. I feel like she really blazed the trail for turning self-published designs into an actual business. I also love that she puts out designs that she loves, and that are so different from the mainstream.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
My business wouldn't exist without the Internet. It's how I met everyone I work with in the business, it's how I retail my patterns. I suppose without it I might have had a small hobby selling patterns to my local yarn store, but it would not be an actual business.

Is there a designer out there that doesn't? There is absolutely no way you should ever publish a design without having a tech editor take a look at it. Yes, it costs money, but it's money well spent.

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
I feel like it's something I'm still trying to sort out, especially when I'm working on a new design. I've got yarn and projects in almost every room of the house. To some extent what I do is try to set up a few rules to keep me honest. The kids come first, no knitting during meals, no knitting in bed. Beyond that it's kind of a juggling act around here.

How do you deal with criticism?
I try to take it as feedback and improve. I also remind myself that taste is a very personal thing, not everyone will love my work and that's fine.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I'm still working on it. Designing is my full time job, and I've been lucky enough to have seen increased revenue over the years, but I'm still not at where I was when I worked as an engineer. My husband and I moved our family from the San Francisco Bay area to Seattle in order to cut expenses to compensate for that.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Don't quit your day job too soon. In hindsight there was a lot I could have done to grow my design business while still working my old job. I was eager to start, so I quit early and the lack of revenue made it tough. Design on evenings and weekends, grow your portfolio. When you've got a solid set of designs under your belt set up a sales plan and then quit.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/eurybia

An Interview with....Lorilee Beltman



Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Lorilee here and here on Ravelry.



Where do you find inspiration?
Inspiration for designing just comes from wondering (usually while falling asleep) and fiddling around with needles and yarn in the morning. Stitch dictionaries are also inspiring, as is generally being engaged in my surroundings enough to notice things that are pleasing. 

What is your favourite knitting technique?
There is one technique that stands out as having changed my knitting, as it allows me to execute some dimensional designs seamlessly. Because the lights went on for me when I learned it, I try to force Judy Becker's Magic Cast On on any knitter willing to learn.

The teacher in me also wants every knitter to learn magic loop knitting, Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off, and more than a few ways to cast on.

My favorite knitting style for me is continental, although I love to watch people who throw with their left hand, or Victorian knitters who hold their needles like pencils. I love to see variations that get the job done. 


How did you determine your size range?
To date most of my published patterns have been for accessories made in the sizes determined by whomever has hired me to submit the pattern. 

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
Certainly I enjoy looking at other designers work, but I feel strongly about only putting something out there if it looks different from things currently available. There are designers who do stunning things with cables or color or lace, for instance. I am interested in looking, but rarely knit them, as I'd rather look into something I am personally curious about. I'd love to have many designers' works magically appear in my closet, but I don't feel the need to knit them. 

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
What is this controversy of which you speak? You may have to dumb down the question for me to understand. 

Bloggers note: for more background on this question see my post here.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I am new to this and do it myself, but I would be happy to change this going forward.  

Did you do a formal business plan?
When I had a shop, absolutely. Now? No, just goals and schedules on calendars.  

Do you have a mentor?
I have absorbed thrilling bits of knitting knowledge from many people. When I teach I like to remind people that everything I know, I learned, usually the hard way. No single person stands out, which could be due to the fact that I find a lot to admire in many people.

What's the most important thing you have learned?
The most important thing I have learned in my life is something I experience in the knitting community. Time and time again I have found that any person is worth getting to know if you just take the time with them to find out what you share or what you find interesting in them. I have observed knitters who would perhaps not even notice each other in passing on the street sit and knit together and form friendships despite great differences. It has been a real eye-opener for me. This knowledge also keeps me from idolizing or elevating one person over another. 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/chillaxin-plaid-hat-and-mitten

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I consider myself a teacher first, designer second. Social media is useful for spreading the word about upcoming events and newly-released designs.  

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
To decide what is most important to get done in any day, then do that, is often challenging in any job. Knitting is no different, except working from home has its extra challenges.  

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/chameleon-scarf


How do you deal with criticism?
Anyone who criticizes me is an idiot. Okay- I am totally kidding! I shouldn't joke around like that with people who don't know me. Like many people, I accept it when I ask for it, but unsolicited criticism isn't usually productive for me. On balance, most of my feedback is very encouraging.

This does remind me of a specific example of criticism that does bug me. On Youtube there is a CraftSanity video of me giving a continental knitting tutorial. I get "love" mail regularly regarding the tips in that video, which at this moment has about 800,000 views. Not too shabby. What I have stopped responding to are the comments from people who, in response to my five seconds of throwing, get super critical of my throwing technique, or feel like I am dissing throwing. Anyone who takes a class from me will attest to me not saying that my way is the best way, just the best for me. And, yes, I am a crap thrower, which is why the tutorial is not titled "English Style Knitting." 

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting? 
Don't think you know everything, ever. But don't let missing knowledge prevent you from giving it a shot. Everything you need to know you can learn if you pursue it with great curiosity.

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lingonberry-2

An Interview with...Myra Wood



Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Myra here and here on Ravelry.
Where do you find inspiration?
Mainly from teaching and interacting with the fiber community online and through my local guild. I get so excited sharing the love we all have for sticks and string.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
That's a toss-up. I love the ease and speed of Russian knitting. It's great for even tension and much easier on my wrists. I also think backwards knitting is a wonderful tool to have handy for entrelac and other styles where a lot of turning is involved. Then there's lace knitting and freeform…top down raglans… should I go on? And then there's crocheting! I think one of the best techniques any knitter can learn is how to crochet. It opens up a whole new world of possibilities. I like to remind people..it's ALL sticks and string.



Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I look at everything! I think absorbing as much as you can is part of the creative process. I look at regular fashion blogs and go mall shopping all the time to see how things are constructed.  I'm addicted to Ravelry. To me, creativity isn't about reinventing the wheel. It's about combining and translating everything we see around us through our own eyes and putting our own spin on it.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
I design garments I want to wear and write them accordingly. Sometimes they're easy, sometimes they're complicated depending on how many techniques are involved. I write patterns for all levels of knitters so it really depends on the design, not the audience. I stopped designing for publications that request a specific garment in a specific style written a specific way. That's way too boring. I have too many of my own ideas I want to explore. I love a good challenge.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
One of the reasons I limit how much I publish is so that I can work on the designs myself. I often find better ways to construct something as I knit or crochet so doing the work myself is integral to the design process.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
The internet and Ravelry specifically was a paradigm shift for the fiber world. Before Ravelry, actually before the internet, it was very hard to network and connect with other knitters or people in the industry. The only way to personally interact was at the consumer and trade shows.
I'm primarily a teacher so I love having direct contact with people. I would meet people wherever I'd teach but I'd lose contact soon after a class. Now it's very easy for anyone to see where and what I'm teaching through sites like http://www.knittinguniverse.com. The other amazing thing is online teaching! I can now connect and teach people globally with http://www.craftsy.com/
The internet has made all the difference! 


Do you use a tech editor?
Absolutely! If I'm self-publishing I actually use two. There's no way to publish a proper pattern without tech editing. You can never see all of your own mistakes.


How do you maintain your life/work balance?
My life is my work. I don't have kids and my husband is an artist so he understands my obsessive need to have something in my hands. If I'm not working on a specific project, I'd still be knitting or crocheting so I might as well have a purpose for the end product. I do find that I need to limit my traveling so that I can stay creative and inspired. I cut down the amount of time I spend on the road and give myself breaks of at least a month in between to recharge.


How do you deal with criticism?
Criticism's never fun but I try and remember not to take it personally. I listen to what's being said and first try to determine the motivation behind it. If it's valid, I'm all ears. I'm always open to growing. But if it's just snark, then I try and let it roll off my back.
  

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
I'm not sure how long it took but it was years and more importantly it's from various directions. The whole key for me is diversifying and having lots going on. By combining book publishing, teaching, designing for other publications, tv appearances, etc I'm able to have a revenue stream that works for me. That takes a while to build up.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting? 
Don't expect overnight success. It takes a long time to build a career so initially continue to do what you've been doing for an income. Be patient but be tenacious. Keep working at it and it will happen if you really want it to.  



An Interview with...Vera Sanon

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/knit-oak-leaves-shawl

Once a week I post interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry. I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. The second link below is to a site that supports a micro-business project that serves the poorest women in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. It is a project that Vera and a partner are hoping to grow. Currently, she is designing patterns for Cascade Yarns as well as her independent designs.

You can find Vera here and here.
Where do you find inspiration?
I find my inspiration from several different sources. I have a son who is a high fashion model who works in New York, Paris, Milan and South Africa. He tends to let me know fun fashion trends within the industry. My Amanda’s Wrap is a result of my conversations with my son, rectangular wraps and ponchos are really hot for Fall 2012.

Sometimes, I see a lace pattern or come across a technique such as the Estonian Braid (lateral braid) and I create a design around the lace or technique. My Bower Cardigan, (picture below) in Knitscene Summer 2012, is designed around a lace stitch and My Ricky for All Seasons (picture below) incorporates the Estonian Braid that I fell in love with.

Other times, I look around the high fashion boutiques or just people watch in Hollywood, where I live. My Favorite Hollywood Vest is an example of my fashion watching in Hollywood.

Also, I look through many fashion magazines from all over the world to keep an eye on trends. My Very Pretty Lace Beret is a result of the current beret fashion trend.

What is your favourite knitting technique?
I love garments that are constructed from the top-down. I love this technique because the garment can be tried on while it is being knitted and the knitter can make adjustments on-the-go to make a really nice fitting garment.
How did you determine your size range?
I am 6 feet (182 cm) tall and have never been petite. Personally, I wear a size 16/18 or XL. Even as a teenager, knitting, I always had to custom fit my knits since most patterns that I liked were too small for my built. Thus, when I design patterns, I try to design from sizes XS or S up to 4XL or 3XL. I want my knit patterns to fit a variety of sizes. 
Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
I not only look at other designers’ work, when I just want to knit without having to crunch numbers, etc. I also knit their patterns. Most recently, I knit something from Amy Gunderson, Sarah Wilson (the Sexy Knitter), Stephen West or Jane Richmond because I like their designs.
How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters?
I learned to knit 40 years ago from my great-grandmother in Germany. In Europe, patterns just give you the minimal amount of information with the assumption that a knitter will know “the rest”. I had the support of my great-grandmother and my mother (who owned a yarn store in Germany) to figure out these skeletal patterns. Other knitters are not so lucky to have that support.
I am a teacher by trade and thus, I love to teach others. In my patterns, I try to teach a techniques or I try to be as detailed in my explanations as possible so that inexperienced knitters can follow along. I also provide a lot of email support to anybody who needs assistance in knitting my patterns.
In my opinion, that is not “dumbing down” a pattern that is giving support to get another knitter to make a pattern that she/he would otherwise not be able to knit.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bower-cardigan

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I knit all of my samples myself. However, I have an awesome crew of test knitters who live all over the globe, Australia, Thailand, UK, Austria, Germany, Canada, Poland, Russia, aside from the U.S. All together, I have about 16 – 20 regular test knitters.
Did you do a formal business plan?
I do not have a formal business plan, though I try to publish about four patterns per month.
Do you have a mentor?
I have ongoing conversations with other designers. We support and encourage each other, which is something that I really appreciate. Also, I consider the knitters who make my patterns and who contact me, telling me that they love my designs, etc. to be my mentors. I have a group on Ravelry and the encouragement and mentorship from the knitters in my group is incredible. 
Do you have a business model that you have emulated?
Another designer once mentioned in an interview that residual income from his many patterns is what he strives for. With the Internet, this is very much possible to build a business based on the ongoing pattern sales.
What impact has the Internet had on your business?
I have a design business because of the Internet, or rather because of Ravelry! Personally, I prefer to independently publish patterns and that would be very difficult without the Internet.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ricky-for-all-seasons

Do you use a Tech Editor?
If the pattern is complicated, I will use a tech editor. If a pattern is published through a magazine, the magazine employs a tech editor.
How do you maintain your life/work balance?
Knitting is my passion! Thus, knitting and designing is not work to me, it is relaxing and fun. My husband is super supportive of my knitting and designing and is probably my biggest fan. My children also know how to knit and to crochet. My youngest two – who are five and six – loom knit. My son and daughter who are 10 and 14, are avid knitters. My daughter who plays college basketball crochets whenever she has a chance. My son who is the fashion model knits as well… So we are a knitting and crocheting family.
Also, in addition to designing, I am the founder and executive director of “Fanm pou Fanm” (Women for Women). We teach crochet to women in Haiti who use crochet to set up small businesses. We also supply the yarn and sell crochet items, such as market bags, in the U.S. and Germany. 100% of the profit goes back to the women. My family and I lived in Haiti and survived the earthquake and resettled in the U.S. but many others did not have that opportunity. So, I am assisting other women in making a living through yarn.
As you can see knitting and crocheting is my life.
How do you deal with criticism?
I try to be receptive to constructive criticism because I can learn from that type of feedback. But, at the same time, each of my designs is like “my baby” and like any mother, we get our feelings hurt if our babies are criticized.
How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Designing is still my part-time business.
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/alicia-summer-top

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Pursue your dream and treat it like a business.

An Interview with...Helene Magnusson

Helene knitting on the top of the new mountain Magni born from the eruption of Eyjafjallajokull (you can't sit too long, it's still hot!)  Photo taken during the Hiking and knitting between Fire and Ice tour

Once a week I post  interviews with interesting designers about their insights on their experience of working in the Knitting industry.  I’ve noticed that every designer makes their living in a slightly different manner bringing their own unique presence to the Knitting world. 

You can find Helene here.

Pattern available on Helene's web site

You focus on Icelandic knitting traditions, why does this knitting heritage speak so strongly to you ?
I have a love affair with Iceland that started almost 20 years ago when I first moved to the island. Although I'm a French native, I've always felt home there and found my roots. I studied Fashion and textile design at the Iceland Academy of the Arts so when it comes to design, I consider myself as 100% Icelandic. As a matter of fact, many Icelanders think I'm half Icelandic with French origins! My focus on Icelandic knitting traditions is both a genuine interest I have in knitting, the history of knitting in general and everything Icelandic in particular, and it has quite spontaneously become my specialty. I also enjoy the challenge to frame my work within this particular niche. The Icelandic knitting heritage is very rich and I think the best way to honor traditions is to give them a new life, not just imitate them. I hope this comes through in all the designs published on my website, The Icelandic Knitter, but also in my upcoming book on Icelandic handknits (Voyageurs Press 2012)


What is your favourite knitting technique?
Most people think it's Icelandic intarsia because of my very first knitting book about old Icelandic shoe-inserts and the intarsia tradition unique to Iceland ("Icelandic knitting using rose patterns", Search Press 2009, first published in Icelandic in 2006), but the truth is that what I enjoy most is working with colors and motifs whatever technique is involved.

01 – Autumn 2010 Webzine


How did you determine your size range?
The design usually determines the size range. Some designs will work in little and big sizes, or even really big sizes, some other not. Some designs would need so much alteration to that they look good on both small or big sizes that it would in fact be two different designs with a similar look. I have also started graded according to height, for example coats, dresses or skirts.

Do you look at other designers' work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs?
Of course, you have to keep yourself up to date. However I think I found my own style a long time ago and my designs are usually recognizable.

How do you feel about the so called controversy of "dumbing down" patterns for knitters?
Sorry, I'm not sure what controversy it is...

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?
I used to knit the prototypes myself but lately I've been using quite many sample knitters. It is a good school as it forced me to be much more rigorous and precise in the design process itself. But if it's a design with a very unusual shape or construction that I'm not completely sure how or even if it will work out, I knit it myself. For example my Flowerpot coat has a very unusual geometric shape: it may look like it's easy but it took many trials to position the arms correctly and cut the shape around the motif in a way that it is flattering to wear.


Did you do a formal business plan?
Sort of but things went a bit out of control with my business growing quickly in directions I wasn't expecting at all, so now I'm working on a new one that involves all the aspects of it.
I have for example created my own yarn label, Love Story, a pure Icelandic fine lace weight wool, probably the softest of the Icelandic wool on the market. I had a pre-launch this winter and it was a huge success with my stock sold out in merely two weeks! I will have some more this spring but the real thing will be next winter when I release my other book about the old Icelandic lace dresses of Aðalbjörg Jónsdóttir. It is to recreate those absolutely stunning dresses that I developed this yarn in the first place.

 Cecile mittens, Helene's modern take on traditional Icelandic cross stitch mittens

Do you have a mentor?
There are a lot of designers, not just in the hand knitting world, I admire but I couldn't call them mentor.

What impact has the Internet had on your business?
It is what made it possible in the first place, when I decided to concentrate on hand-knitting back in 2009 and it is what keeps me connected to the knitting world: physically it's fair to say that I'm completely isolated where I live at the moment... But I will be moving back to Iceland next summer after some years spent in continental Europe: I can't wait!

Do you use a Tech Editor?
Of course! Not always for the best unfortunately: I've had a few bad experiences in the past. I'm still on the look out for a tech editor that would be fluent at English, French AND Icelandic! Working with three different languages increases the risk of mistakes being made even after a pattern has been thoroughly edited and tested... it' very stressful...

Helene knitting in a blue lagoon North of Iceland (not THE blue lagoon, far too touristic Helene says!)

How do you maintain your life/work balance?
With three young daughters, it's difficult to go completely over the edge. Without them I would probably have lost my sanity a long time ago! Otherwise mountaineering, hiking in the wild is very important to me. Oh and then knitting! The physical action of knitting is still a relaxing hobby for me (as long as I'm not working on a prototype, then it's all about extra-concentration, over excitement and a fair dose of frogging...).

Theodora knitted doll wearing the peysufot (the traditional Icelandic costume)

How do you deal with criticism?
If it's constructive criticism, very well. It is of course very nice to hear that what you do is great but usually it is the criticism that have made me improved. Then, I have a few designs that I know will bring negative reactions because they are unusual but that I assume completely too.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself?
Although my first knitting book was published in 2006, it is not before 2009 that I embraced the hand knitting world fully. It took about two years to fully support myself and my family.
Before that, I worked as a product designer and a mountain guide.

A group of knitters taking a geothermal bath (during my Magical Icelandic night knitting tour in November: you can see it was snowing...)


Could you tell us a little about the knitting tours you run?
My knitting tours are all about the Icelandic knitting heritage and traditional Icelandic techniques, of course. What a better way to preserve Old traditions than to share them with others in knitting tours? The tours are the promise of an authentic Icelandic knitting and nature experience and I hope I succeed in sharing my passion and knowledge. I would think so since most of my participants either come back or start learning Icelandic or make plans to move!

Knitting is intrinsically part of Icelandic culture, so exploring its culture and breathtaking nature with a knitterly angle is a great way to discover the many faces of the country, a bit away from mass-tourism areas. Some of my most popular tours are my hiking and knitting tours which is something that has never been done before I think - it is a collaboration with Icelandic Mountain Guides: believe it or not, somewhere at the top of a volcano or crossing a glacial river, it can become very clear why Icelandic sheep is so important and how knitting became so popular in Iceland in the 16th century!

I often coordinate my tours with interesting events for knitters happening in Iceland: for example in May, I set up a knitting tour that coincides with the Craft and Design Fair and is a great opportunity to meet in person many Icelandic designers from all over the country. It is also the lambing season in Iceland and it's hard to resist all the cuteness...

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?
Be aware that your actual knitting time will be seriously reduced...